coconut: the dairy of vegan baking

Coconut is a convenient replacement for dairy in baking for many reasons. First, like butter and cream, coconut has a delicious, rich flavor. Second, coconut oil is primarily saturated fat, which makes it solid at room temperature (with a melting point of 76F) and can function like butter or shortening. Coconut oil is also increasingly being recognized as one of the healthiest types of fat (see below).

Baking with Coconut

Heavy cream (aka whipping cream) in many baked goods can be directly substituted with coconut milk, the kind found in cans. Avoid "lite" versions, which are pointless as far as I can tell because some of the fat is removed, which is what contains all the flavor. Be sure to shake the can before opening, as coconut milk usually is separated, unless you know you want just the thick cream on the top.

Coconut oil usually comes in a jar and is solid at room temperature. The easiest way to use it in baking is to place the coconut oil jar in a bowl of hot water, which melts the oil inside, then pour out the melted oil. Clarified butter and ghee, which are nearly all butterfat, can be directly substituted with coconut oil. Normal butter is only about 80% butterfat, as it retains some liquid and milk solids, and in most recipes this should be taken into consideration. To simulate butter in most pastries, I like add 1 part coconut milk to 3 parts coconut oil, and whisk them together with a fork until the oil resolidifies and the mixture resembles whipped butter. This can then be creamed together with sugar or cut into a flour mixture. Coconut oil comes in both scented and unscented varieties. I use the scented version exclusively because I think it imparts rich coconut undertones and makes a better substitute for butter, which has its own flavor. However, if you don't want everything have a coconut taste, try the unscented version.

Shredded coconut is great for adding texture and flavor to baked goods. You can toast shredded coconut to add a caramelized, toasty flavor and a slightly crisper texture. Spread in an even layer on a baking sheet, and bake at 350F for about 5 minutes. Stir with a spatula and return to oven for another couple of minutes. Repeat until evenly golden brown.

If your oven isn't already on, you can also toast coconut flakes in a skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring or shaking the pan often, until evenly browned. Keep a close watch on the coconut when almost done because it will become overcooked very fast.

Coconut Health

There's much that's misunderstood about coconut oil. This is partly because most of the past research on coconut oil was based on hydrogenated coconut oil, which, like any hydrogenated oil, is unhealthy.

Many claim coconut oil to be unhealthy because it is more than 90% saturated fat, more than butter or lard. However, just as it's now common knowledge that not all fats are equally healthy (there are monounsaturated, polyunsaturated, saturated, and then the dreaded hydrogenated oils), not all saturated fats are created equal either. Whereas long chain fatty acids, the main type in animal fat, is difficult for your body to break down and stored as surplus body fat, the saturated fats in coconut oil are medium chain fatty acids (MCFAs), which are supposedly burned by your liver as immediate energy. Proponents of coconut oil say they increase metabolism by taking stress off of the pancreas, helping the body burn energy and overweight people to reduce body fat. They also claim MCFAs are easier to digest, assisting the health of thyroid and enzyme systems, and have antimicrobial properties, which helps to control bacteria, fungi, and parasites that cause indigestion.

There's a widespread belief that coconut oil is bad for the heart because of the saturated fat. However, lauric acid makes up about half the fat in coconut oil, and is said to actually help prevent heart problems such as high cholesterol and blood pressure. It is also the most important essential fatty acid in maintaining the body' immune system. The only other rich dietary source of lauric acid is mother's milk.

As much as I'm tempted to take all these virtues of coconut oil as an excuse to eat unlimited coconut-fattened pastries, like everything else, coconut oil is only healthy in moderation. Because pastries are sweet by definition, they are never going to be truly healthy, but I like to think of coconut oil as a reduced-guilt baking technique.

Sources:

Mercola, Joseph. "Coconut Oil Benefits: When Fat Is Good For You." The Huffington Post. 14 Feb. 2011. Web. 20 Feb. 2011.
Patil, Kirin. "Health Benefits of Coconut Oil." Organic Facts. Web. 20 Feb. 2011.
Wilsinson, Fiona. "Health Benefits of Coconut: A Good Diet Aid, Heart Healthy and Helps Fight Cancer." Suite101.com: Online Magazine and Writers' Network. 10 Mar. 2010. Web. 19 Feb. 2011.

gluten-free oatmeal raisin cookies

Oatmeal cookies are my ultimate comfort food: crisp on the outside and moist and chewy on the inside, generously-spiced, and perfect for dunking in a strong cup of coffee. I don't even like raisins that much, but for some reason they are unbeatable with cinnamon and walnuts in oatmeal cookies. One of the main drawbacks of these cookies being vegan is that they don't have raw eggs in the batter, which means I usually end up eating half the cookie dough.

Whoever had the genius of putting raisins in oatmeal cookies is unknown, but we do know oatmeal cookies are a descendent of oat cakes, baked in Scotland as far back as 1000 BC. The cakes were more like a staple food, and didn't evolve into a cookie until the 1800s, when oatmeal had become more popular throughout the world. They then gained popularity as a health food, which is unfortunately misleading.

Notes:

• The dough stays well in the refrigerator for several days or in the freezer for much longer.
• While I like to make most pastries as small as possible, these are better large because the outside can be crispy while the interior remains soft.
• The cookies freeze very well and make phenomenal ice cream sandwiches. I bet you can also heat them up and crumble on top of an ice cream sundae, although they've never lasted in the freezer long enough for me to try this. 

Substitutions:

• If you don't need wheat-free cookies and you don't have arrowroot, brown rice flour, or xantham gum, omit these ingredients and add 3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour or all-purpose flour. The cookies will be a bit chewier.
• Can't find affordable maple syrup? No problem--just replace with 1-1/3 cups vegan brown sugar or Sucanat and 1/2 cup non-dairy milk. 
• If coconut oil is also a splurge, you can replace up to half with another oil. I usually use 1/4 cup coconut oil, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and 2 tablespoons of a neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola (don't be afraid to use olive oil in sweets--it gives a subtle savory backdrop). The coconut oil definitely gives the cookies a buttery richness, so I wouldn't omit entirely. 
• If you don't have almond flour, grind 1/2 cup almonds or hazelnuts in a food processor or sturdy coffee grinder until the ground nuts just begin to clump.
• VARIATION: Chocolate Cinnamon Oatmeal Cookies
  Omit the nutmeg and raisins, double or triple the cinnamon, and add 4 oz (115g) chopped dark chocolate bar and 2/3 cup unsweetened coconut flakes.
  
  

Makes 2 dozen smallish or 1 dozen huge cookies

Total time: 1.5 hours

1 cup (320g) maple syrup

2 tablespoons arrowroot powder or cornstarch

2 tablespoons ground flaxseed 

1/2 cup (110g) melted coconut oil

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

2/3 cup (100g) brown rice flour

1/3 cup (40g) almond flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon xantham gum

2 cups (200g) gluten-free oats

1 cup (150g) raisins

2/3 cup (70g) walnuts or pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

With a fork, whisk together the maple syrup, arrowroot, and flax for several minutes. Whisk in the coconut oil, vanilla, and spices and stir until hardened. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, baking soda, and xantham gum. Stir the mixtures together vigorously for 1-2 minutes, then add the oats, raisins, and walnuts. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Roll dough into 1.5" balls, flatten with your palms slightly, and place on a greased cookie sheet. Cook the sheets one at a time for the most even baking. Halfway through baking, tap a spatula lightly on each cookie to flatten the tops of the domes, rotate baking sheet, and continue cooking. Remove the cookies after 12-14 minutes, when browned around the edges but still soft and slightly wet in the center, and let cool. However, if you're like me, you'll dive into the cookies while they're still hot and get a fistful of crumbly oat goodness. These also taste ridiculously good dunked in coffee.

hazelnut scones with raspberry jam

If you want a scone you can split and slather with jam, these are the way to go. Note that the raspberry jam is the key part of this recipe; while the scones are okay without it, the subtle tartness of the raspberries truly brings out the orange and hazelnut flavors, making the scones heavenly.

Follow the blueberry lemon scone recipe, but replace the blueberries with 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted 6-8 minutes, rubbed together to remove most of the skins, and coarsely chopped. Replace the lemon flavor with orange flavor and the lemon zest for the zest of 1 orange. Instead of making the icing, serve with raspberry jam.

lemon blueberry scones

Scones are possibly my favorite pastry: unfussy, flaky wedges that always remind me of downtown cafes and sunny mornings. I get requests for these particular scones more than almost anything else, and the last time I made them, someone remarked, "Wow, I could be vegan." As much as I like to brag, I can't take all the credit; the delicate flavors of lemon and blueberry enriched with coconut oil do all the work here. If you don't have fresh blueberries, hazelnut scones with raspberry jam are equally delicious.

I like to make these small—just big enough for a few rich bites—but if you want larger scones just cut the dough into 10 or 12 larger triangles instead. For making scones, it also helps to have all ingredients cold ahead of time.

Makes 18 small scones

Total time: 1.5 hours

3/4 cup coconut milk, plus another 2-3 tablespoons for brushing

1/3 cup coconut oil, melted (or substitute olive oil)

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour or whole wheat pastry flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup fresh blueberries

1/3 cup maple syrup (or sub 1/2 cup brown sugar and increase the coconut milk to 1 cup)

1/2 teaspoon lemon flavor

zest of 1-2 lemons

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Measure out 3/4 cup coconut milk. With a fork, whisk together about 3 tablespoons of the coconut milk with the coconut oil until the mixture solidifies. Refrigerate for 10-20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut the chilled coconut mixture into the flour mixture with a fork or hands (just like cutting in butter), then chill.
4. Stir together what remains of the 3/4 cup coconut milk with the maple syrup, lemon flavor, zest, and blueberries. Pour into the flour mixture. Gently mix together until batter just comes together in clumps, then gather the clumps to form a soft dough. If the dough is too sticky to work with, cover and refrigerate.
5. Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and shape into a square about 1 inch high. With a sharp knife, cut into nine smaller squares, then cut each square in half diagonally to make 18 small triangles. If you want wedge-shaped scones instead, form two circles and cut each into eighths.
6. Place the scones on a greased or parchment-lined cookie sheet. Brush the tops of the scones with a little coconut milk, which helps the browning during baking.
7. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until lightly golden brown. While scones are cooling, prepare the icing.

Icing:

1/2 cup vegan powdered sugar

1 tablespoon coconut milk

1/8 teaspoon lemon flavor

Stir together the sugar and milk, and microwave for 20-30 seconds. Stir until smooth, and mix in the oil and flavor. Microwave for another 15 seconds and stir again. Repeat until the icing is runny, and drizzle over the tops of the scones, letting it drip down the sides. The icing will set once it’s cooled.

sesame tofu scramble

Tofu scrambles have become my staple food in the last year--I can make them with pretty much whatever ingredients I have and they come out good as long as I add coconut milk and salt of some sort. This asian-cuisine-inspired version is probably my favorite; I always double the batch and store leftovers in the fridge for breakfast or lunch the next couple days. 

Serves 2 very hungry people

1 tablespoon sesame, peanut, or coconut oil

1-2 onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1-2” piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped

1 cup mushrooms, thinly sliced (optional)

1 (around 14 oz) package firm or extra-firm tofu

¼-1/3 cup coconut milk

¼ cup nutritional yeast

2 tablespoons soy sauce/tamari/Bragg’s Aminos, or to taste

2 teaspoons cumin, ground or whole

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

pinch of ground hot pepper, such as cayenne or chipotle, to taste

½ bunch greens (kale, collards, chard), stems removed and coarsely chopped OR several handfuls of baby spinach

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons sesame seeds (at least)

black pepper

In a large pan, heat oil over medium heat. Sauté onion, garlic, ginger, and bell pepper about 10 minutes, until onion is translucent. Add mushrooms, if using. Squeeze the excess water out of the tofu with your hands and crumble into pan. Saute another 10 minutes, until tofu is slightly browned. Stir in coconut milk, yeast, soy sauce, cumin, turmeric, and pepper. Add greens and cook another 5 minutes, until they’re wilted. Stir in sesame oil and black pepper, and sprinkle generously with sesame seeds. Remove from heat, and serve hot. 

raspberry and white chocolate mousse torte

This is my favorite version of the vegan "raw cheesecake," which consists of a blended, creamy filling that's usually cashew-based and agave-sweetened, and a nut-based bottom crust. Variations of the "cheesecake" can be found pretty much anywhere that offers raw vegan food. They don't really taste like traditional cheesecakes at all, but something completely different and at least as delicious. I don't call this a cheesecake because people who don't like cheesecake often love this, and cheesecake lovers who expect a cheesecake will be disappointed. Anyway, I love the flavor and color of the white chocolate juxtaposed with the raspberry filling. Lemon juice and zest sharpen the flavors, and the chocolate hazelnut crust is good enough to be eaten on its own. 

Makes one 9" torte

Requires 1 day for soaking nuts

Crust:

3/4 cup hazelnuts

3/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1/3 cup cocoa nibs

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (170g) pitted, chopped dates, preferably medjool

1 tablespoon agave or maple syrup

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Filling:

2 1/2 cup cashews

2 cups hazelnut milk or almond milk (use homemade for the best-tasting result)

3/4 cup agave

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice plus the lemon zest

3 tablespoons soy lecithin (helps emulsify the oils), or sub with additional cocoa butter

2/3 cup cocoa butter, melted in a double boiler

6 oz fresh or frozen and defrosted raspberries

Rinse the cashews and soak in cold water for 8-24 hours in the refrigerator.

Add all the crust ingredients to a food processor except the dates, agave, and vanilla. Blend until the nuts are well broken down. Add the dates, agave, and vanilla and blend until consistent and the crust starts to rise on the sides of the bowl.

Lightly grease the entire inside of a 9" or 10" springform pan with coconut oil. Place the crust mixture in the pan and press into an even layer with your hands.

Drain and rinse the soaked cashews. Add the cashews, 1+3/4 cup of the nut milk, agave, vanilla, salt, and half of the lemon juice and zest to a blender. Blend several minutes, until completely smooth. Add the soy lecithin and cocoa butter and blend until well incorporated. Pour all but about 2 cups of the filling into the springform pan on top of the crust. Add the raspberries and the remaining lemon juice, nut milk, and zest to the 2 cups of filling and blend until smooth.

Pour the raspberry filling lightly into the pan, making sure you pour around all parts of the pan. Use a spoon and/or chopstick to swirl the two colors into each other (be sure not to overdo it, because eventually the two colors will blend together. Place in the freezer to set for 1.5-2 hours, until the middle of the cheesecake is firm to the touch. Slice with a sharp knife and serve. Store covered in the fridge for up to several days.

garlicky kale with tahini dressing

Garlicky Kale

1 large bunch greens chopped (or 1.5 bunch)

4 med. tomatoes, diced

1T olive oil

6-8 cloves garlic, diced

1/4 - 1/2 t salt

1T toasted sesame oil

lemon wedges for garnish (opt)

Cook garlic in olive oil over med-high hea tuntil golden. Add tomatoes and greens. Cook 5-10 min., with the lid on most of the time, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the kale is tender. Add salt and sesame oil and remove from heat.

Serve with a drizzle of garlic tahini dressing and maybe a sprinkle of sesame seeds.

Garlic Tahini Dressing

1T olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, sliced

1/2c tahini

2T balsamic

1/2t salt

juice of 1 large lemon (3-4T)

1/2t paprika

1/2c water

1T whole cumin

1T agave

Heat garlic and cumin in oil over low heat 2-4 minutes, just until fragrant. Remove from heat. Add all other ingredients to a liquid measuring cup and add garlic mixture. Blend with immersion blender until smooth.

mom's spicy candied pecans

When I smell caramelizing sugar and chipotle wafting from the kitchen I know it's the holiday season. Mom makes gigantic batches of these remarkably addictive nuts each year to give out as Christmas presents. This year she doubled the recipe and made three batches, and what she didn't give away is long gone. She makes them without measuring, but fortunately she let me observe and record the recipe. Mom suggests you get all your ingredients ready ahead of time because the temperature rises quickly at the end which can ruin the consistency. If you don't like chipotle you can omit it and the nuts will still be good, they just won't have that extra bite.

1 cup unrefined cane sugar (or brown sugar)

1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 to 1 teaspoon chipotle powder

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 cups pecans (lightly toasting first is optional)

Spread out a generous length of wax paper on the counter. In a large saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, combine the Sucanat, water, and cinnamon over medium heat and stir until dissolved. When the temperature reaches about 225F, stir in the salt and chipotle. At 250F, remove from heat, add the vanilla, briefly stir, then add the pecans. Stir to coat the pecans and keep stirring until the sugar is completely crystalized. Spread out on the wax paper. Try not to "test" as many as I do.

pecan pie with fresh ginger

According to legend, the French invented the pecan pie after the the Native Americans introduced the pecan to settlers in New Orleans. However, the first recorded recipes of the pie popped up in the 1920s, and well-known cookbooks such as the Joy of Cooking did not contain it until the '40s. Karo syrup popularized the pie, claiming the executive's wife "discovered" it in the 30s as a new use for corn syrup, and most recipes since then called for Karo corn syrup. Like the origins of most food, we'll never know the true story. Since then it has become a specialty of Southern cuisine and, like the pumpkin pie, a constant feature at American holiday feasts.

Replacing the traditional corn syrup with maple and brown rice syrup and adding fresh ginger give this rich, crowd-pleasing pie a deeper flavor. It's in fact very gingery, so if you don't like ginger you can use only half, or eliminate it altogether. The pie will still be good, but I haven't heard any ginger complaints even from the picky eaters (like my brother). This year I made it five times for different Thanksgiving parties, and by popular demand it will be back for Christmas in just a few weeks. In the picture directly above, the visible portion of the pie was the only part remaining because my family couldn't wait for me to take a photo.

Makes one 9" pie; serves 8-10

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 1 hour

9" unbaked vegan pie crust

3 cups pecans

3/4 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup brown rice syrup

2 tablespoons peeled, minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons ground flaxseed

1-1/2 teaspoon arrowroot (or substitute with cornstarch)

1/3 cup non-dairy milk

Preheat oven to 350F. Par-bake the pie crust for about 15 minutes. Toast the pecans for 7-9 minutes, just until fragrant and slightly darkened. Chop the nuts, between fine and coarse, leaving a few whole for decoration.

In a medium saucepan combine the syrups, ginger, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Combine with the flaxseed, arrowroot, milk, and 1/4 cup of the chopped pecans, and pour in blender, and blend until smooth. Pour this mixture into a large bowl with the remaining chopped pecans and mix well, then pour into the pie crust. Place the whole pecans decoratively in the center on top of the pie. Bake for 40-45 minutes, until the pie is lightly browned and the filling almost set, as it will firm up more upon cooling. Cover the crust with foil if it is browning too quickly. Let cool and serve.

arroz con leche de coco (coconut rice pudding)

2/3 cup long-grain white rice (basmati or jasmine)

1 3/4 cup almond milk

zest of 1 lemon or orange
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp cinnamon
a big pinch of allspice/nutmeg

1 1/2 cup coconut milk

1/2 cup agave or 2/3 cup sugar

2 tsp vanilla

1/2 tsp salt
1 tbs dark rum
optional: 1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup lightly toasted grated coconut


Bring rice, almond milk, and spices to a boil, cover, and simemr 15 minutes. Add coconut milk, agave, vanilla, salt, and raisins if using. Bring mixture to a boil, lower heat, and simmer 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and cool 10 minutes. Garnish with cinnamon and coconut.

gluten-free cornmeal pancakes

Cornmeal, ground from dried maize, comes in more than a few varieties; to start with, there's fine, medium and coarse consistencies. Medium grinds are fine in most baked goods, though finely ground is best for delicate pastries such as cakes. Finely ground cornmeal is also called cornflour in the States, though in the UK cornflour refers to cornstarch. Coarsely ground cornmeal gives baked goods more texture and crunch, which may or may not be desirable.

You may also see cornmeal labeled "steel ground" or "stone ground," or "old fashioned." Steel ground cornmeal, particularly common in the US, has the hull and germ of the maize kernel mostly removed, and stays good almost indefinitely if stored in a cool, dry location. Meanwhile, stone ground (aka "old fashioned") cornmeal retains some of the hull and germ, giving it more nutrition and flavor. However, it also has a shorter shelf life, which can be extended by refrigerating or even freezing the cornmeal.

To top it off, cornmeal comes in three different colors: yellow, white, and blue. Yellow cornmeal is standard in baked goods and polenta for most of the world. African dishes and many cornbread and pancake recipes from the Southern US use white cornmeal. Blue cornmeal can be used for a more exiting color, nutritional benefits, and a stronger flavor.

Yellow cornmeal in this recipe gives these pancakes an appealing golden hue, but feel free to experiment with different types of cornmeal. In place of eggs, I grind golden flaxseed— normal flaxseed would make healthfood-looking brown flecks in the pancakes—and whisk with water.

The cornmeal in these fluffy, delicious pancakes pairs especially well with blueberries, blackberries, or orange. When I made these pancakes today for a Saturday-morning brunch I heated some maple syrup with frozen blackberries for an instant, delicious blackberry compote. Adding some orange zest wouldn't have hurt anything either. If you want to keep the pancakes warm, preheat the oven to 200F, and stack them on a plate until ready.

VARIATIONS:

• If you don't have brown rice flour or arrowroot, substitute both with 1/2 cup whole wheat pastry or all-purpose flour.
• Classic Pancakes (gluten-free): Instead of the cornmeal, add 1 cup of brown rice flour (so the total quantity is 1.5 cups) and add 1 cup of of millet or sorghum flour. Omit the lemon zest.
• These pancake recipes also work for making waffles.

Serves 4-6

Total time: 20 minutes

2 cups non-dairy milk

1-1/2 tablespoons lemon juice and zest of 1-2 lemons

2 tablespoons ground golden flaxseed

1 tablespoon arrowroot powder (or cornstarch)

2 cups finely ground yellow cornmeal or corn flour

1/2 cup brown rice flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup melted coconut or sunflower oil, plus more for greasing the griddle

Whisk together the milk, lemon juice, ground flax, and arrowroot for a few minutes, until slightly thickened, and set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. Add the vanilla, syrup, and oil to the wet ingredients.

Oil a large frying pan or griddle and heat to medium-high (350-375F). Add the wet ingredients to the cornmeal mixture and mix until lumps are eliminated (in most pancake recipes you barely stir the batter for fear of tough pancakes caused by gluten formation, but this isn't a problem in gluten-free recipes for obvious reasons).

Once the griddle is hot, scoop or pour about 1/4 cup of batter per pancake. Cook for a couple minutes, until browned, then flip and cook another minute. Serve immediately. Top with fresh berries, maple syrup, blueberry jam, and/or a compote.

apple leek pasticcio

In a visit to Florence last summer, La Raccolta ranked top among most memorable and delicious gastronomical experiences. A lovely vegetarian restaurant tucked away behind a little health food store, from the outside we would have never known a restaurant was even there (thanks, HappyCow). They offer a piatto misto, a combination of everything they're serving that day, and although everything was impressive, the pasticcio di mela e porro (apple leek pasticcio, which is a kind of baked dish covered with béchamel sauce) stole our attention. We raved about it so much that our waiter brought out the chef, who exuberantly explained how he made it, homemade soy béchamel and all. I tried to develop a recipe as soon as I came home, and though this will never be as exquisite as the original, it's pretty good.

Serves 6-10

Total time: 1.5 hours

Béchamel Sauce:

2 tablespoons olive oil or coconut oil

2 tablespoons flour (or substitute with 2 tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch)

1-1/2 cups soy or almond milk

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

In a medium saucepan heat the oil over medium-low heat for a minute or two. Add the flour and stir until smooth, cooking until it turns sandy gold, 5 to 7 minutes. Slowly add the milk to the roux, whisking continuously until smooth. Cook 10 minutes, stirring often, then remove from heat. Stir in the salt and nutmeg and let cool.

Pasticcio:

2-3 large sweet potatoes (the pale-skinned kind)

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 leeks

6 apples

2 teaspoons cumin

1 teaspoon cardamom

1 teaspoon garam masala

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup toasted, unsalted sunflower seeds

Peel the sweet potatoes if the skins don't look good, then chop into slices between 1/4 and 1/3 inch thick. Break the tough green part off of the leeks, then chop the remainders in half. Rinse under water, fanning the layers, then slice thinly. Peel and core the apples, cut into quarters, then chop thinly into slices between 1/4 and 1/8 inch thick.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Heat the oil in a pan and saute the leeks over medium-high heat until nearly translucent. Add the spices and cook for another minute over medium heat. Then add the apple slices and continue cooking for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, oil a 11 x 7 or 9 x 9 inch baking pan and place the sweet potato slices in one or two layers. When the apple mixture is done, spread over the sweet potatoes. Pour the bechamel on top and sprinkle on the sunflower seeds. Bake for 40-45 minutes, until slightly browned around the edges and the sweet potatoes are soft.

Serve warm, on its own or over rice. It will stay good in the fridge for up to a week or in the freezer for several months.

gluten-free maple coconut shortbread bars

Shortbread, a buttery, crumbly type of unleavened biscuit, originated in Scotland perhaps as early as the 12th century, although some attribute its invention to Mary Queen of Scots in the 16th century. The name "shortbread" originated from the early-19th century sense of the word "short," meaning "easily crumbled." This is also where the word "shortening" comes from, referring to any fat used to create a short (as in crumbly) texture.

Shortbread was traditionally made from one part sugar, two parts butter, and three parts oatmeal flour. Today it's more commonly made with white wheat flour, but I decided to try oat flour and liked it. However, nothing else about these bars is traditional: maple syrup stands in for the sugar, coconut oil for the butter, and I couldn't resist adding a chewy maple-coconut-pecan topping.

Total time: 40 minutes

Makes 18-24 bars

2 cups (200g) gluten-free oats, finely ground in a coffee grinder or food processor

1/4 cup (50g) arrowroot powder (or substitute cornstarch)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup maple syrup

2/3 cup coconut oil, melted

1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1/2 cup (50g) pecans, toasted at 350F for 6-7 minutes then finely chopped

1/2 cup maple syrup

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat the over to 350F. Grease a 11" x 7" (28 x 18 cm) or similar-sized baking pan and line with parchment paper.

Whisk together the oat flour, arrowroot, and salt. Whisk together the maple syrup and coconut oil and then add to the dry ingredients, stirring for 2-3 minutes. Pour into the pan and spread evenly. Bake about 14-15 minutes, just until firm in the center.

While the shortbread is cooking, combine the ingredients for the topping in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and simmer for 7-8 minutes until the coconut flakes have absorbed all the liquid. Remove from heat and cover. When the shortbread is done, remove from the oven and spread the coconut mixture evenly over the top. Bake another 12-14 minutes, until well browned around the edges.

Remove from the oven, let cool, then cut into rectangles or triangles with a sharp knife. It may take several hours to cool completely, but if you cut it while still warm you may find yourself with a very tasty, crumbly mess.

orange sesame green beans

Green beans, often called string beans, can rarely be found today with the fibrous string that was once their hallmark; the first stringless beans were bred in the late 19th century. Green beans as well as all other types of beans are derived from a common bean ancestor originating in Peru; migrating Native American tribes spread them throughout South and Central America, and in the 16th century returning Spanish explorers introduced them to Europe. Green beans are the immature form of any kind of bean, picked while the inner beans just begin to form. Also called snap beans, they constitute one of the few types of beans that can be eaten raw. Their impressive nutritional profile serves just as a bonus to their sweetness and flavor; they rank very high in Vitamins K and C, manganese, and many others.

Purchase green beans that feel smooth and firm, look smooth and vibrantly green, and snap when broken. Unwashed fresh green beans should be kept in a bag in the refrigerator, where they will keep for about a week. Immediately before using the green beans, rinse them and chop off both ends (particularly the stem end).

This recipe is my answer to the cravings I get for orange chicken whenever I visit a Chinese restaurant. Don't skimp on the sesame seeds, which make an astonishing difference in the flavor and texture, or the chopped orange segments, which should caramelize until browned and delicious. These can be served as a side dish or over brown rice.

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes, including soak time

Serves 4-6

2 oranges, zested, peeled, segmented, and chopped

2 tablespoons agave nectar

1 tablespoon Bragg's aminos or tamari

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons orange juice

1/2 teaspoon ground pepper

4 cloves garlic, diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

roughly 1 lb green beans, washed and trimmed

1/4 cup sesame seeds

Whisk together the agave, Bragg's, balsamic, orange juice, pepper, garlic, oil, and chopped orange and zest. Place the mixture and the green beans in a large, shallow frying pan or wide saucepan. Soak 15-20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so to soak all the beans. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn down and simmer, covered, for 10-15 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking until most of the liquid is absorbed and the beans are slightly shriveled and the orange slices are caramelized.

Meanwhile, toast the sesame seeds in a frying pan over medium-high heat, shaking often, until fragrant and lightly browned. Serve the beans plain or over brown rice or quinoa, and sprinkle liberally with the toasted sesame seeds.

grandma's rhubarb bars with orange and cardamom

Most of us know and love rhubarb (aka "pie plant") for its sweet-tart flavor found most often in pies, tarts, and sauces. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic, but the beautiful red stalks are edible. Raw, the celery-like rhubarb stalks have a very strong tart flavor, so they're usually cooked and sweetened (such as in strawberry-rhubarb pie) to soften them and counteract the tartness. Though used as a fruit in cooking, rhubarb technically falls into the vegetable category. Its season varies from April to September with location, but in our yard ripens in July or August. Besides the classic rhubarb and strawberry, rhubarb also pairs nicely with caramel, mint, or orange and cardamom (hence this recipe).

These bars come from a veganized version of my grandma's recipe. I also added cardamom and orange to her rhubarb filling because I had them sitting around and it sounded good. The crust/crumble part is very versatile, so you could try any filling you want, with whatever fruit or spices you have on hand. (For example, raspberry bars sound good, and so do orange-chocolate bars or blackberry-ginger-peach bars.) These bars can be made ahead of time and frozen. I think they actually taste better when they're very cold.

Total time: 45 minutes

Makes 10-15 bars

2 cups sliced fresh or frozen rhubarb (4-6 stalks)

2 zested, peeled, segmented, and sliced orange

1 tablespoon ground cardamom (if you want more traditional rhubarb bars, omit the orange and cardamom but use 1.5 cups of rhubarb)

1/2 cup agave

2 tablespoons arrowroot powder

1 cup sliced almonds

2 cups oats

1 cup Florida Crystals (or another vegan sugar)

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup coconut oil, melted

Grease a 9"x13" baking pan. Preheat the oven to 375F.

For the filing, combine the rhubarb, orange segments and zest, cardamom, and agave in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer uncovered for about 5 minutes. Add in the arrowroot and stir in over medium-low heat for another minute or so, until thickened. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in a coffee grinder or food processor, coarsely grind the almonds (there should still be large pieces) and then coarsely grind the oats. Whisk together the almonds, oats, sugar, salt, and soda in a small bowl. Blend in the melted coconut oil with your hands. Remove 1 cup of the crumb mixture for topping, and place in the freezer to set the crumbs.

Press the remaining crumb mixture in the bottom of the prepared pan. Evenly spread the rhubarb mixture on top, and sprinkle the reserved crumb mixture.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until the top is golden. Cool in pan and place in the freezer. Once completely cooled, cut into bars, and store in a sealed container in the freezer (if you don't store them in the freezer, the crust can get slightly soggy). Take them out several minutes before serving to thaw slightly. They will get less tart the longer they thaw.